20 Comments

As a “white office worker” I’ve been going to Cafe Marhaba since the week it opened — yes really. And had already been going to This n That since the 1980s. Now I’m retired I still pop into one or the other when I’m in town. And still get recognised as a regular. Recommendation? Marhaba still has a working tandoor oven and makes the best naan bread and chicken tikka in Manchester — bar none.

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Nice piece, although I don't think rice and three is found 'solely' in Manchester! It's been in Bolton too (including a place literally called Rice 'n' Three) for as long as I can remember.

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Yes, true! Rice N Three in Bolton is actually run by the original owners of This & That, who supposedly invented the concept. Greater Manchester, I suppose.

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Oh really, didn't realise it was owned by them! Good to see the concept/style still working well in a place with fewer office workers and apartment-dwellers

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Surprised Kabana on Back Turner Street doesn’t get a mention. Been to most of these but thought chicken spinach, kebabs, and biryanis produced by Riz at Kabana were the finest!

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Mar 2·edited Mar 2

The pilau rice at Marhaba really is a special touch, you could probably get a full satisfying meal from the rice portion alone, although I agree with Danyal that the lamb dishes are the standouts there - if I fancy a veggie meal I’ll usually go to Yadgar or the all-vegan Aladdin. This is of course why ‘best rice and three’ is a never-ending and eternally satisfying debate - reckon all of them are the best in town at something!

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As a veggie, Yadgar is my café of choice. I like how perfunctory it all is - get to the counter, choose your curries, maybe a bit of conversation about what's good today, get your laden plate, sit down, eat. Done.

I'd never heard it talked of as rice and three until an out of towner I was knocking about with in the mid-noughties asked if I wanted to get rice and three. I said sure why not, willing for an adventure, and found myself at Yadgar.

Quite often I'll only want two curries, which causes a wrinkle in the brow of whoever's serving, but not a refusal. I don't think rice and two is a thing, though.

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Loved this, cafe marhaba has always been one of the best and most unassuming places in the city centre to get lunch, the Nihari that the owners dad makes is a thing of beauty

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Love this Ophira

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founding

Great article but surprised you might think that the Curry Mile would be the destination of choice for the Pakistani community, especially these days.

You need to start walking up Cheetham Hill Road where there is a thriving Pakistani cafe and takeaway culture.

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This and That was a regular Friday treat from the late 90’s onwards for years until I retired in 2016. We were based on Ordsal Lane and someone would always drive over and pick up a large order. Everyone loved it. Great to know it’s still going strong.

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Thanks for another fascinating article. We used to enjoy the 'rice and three' at the Chapati Cafe in Chorlton: now sadly closed since COVID. Never realised it was a Mancunian thing or the history!

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I have fond memories of going to Yagdar with my father in the 80s. My dad used to supply many of the wholesalers in the area. I particularly remember one being called 'PAK Nylon'. He lost his livelyhood in the early 90s when many clothing business closed or went abroad. So sad.

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Great to see the love for Marhaba here. It’s the best of the rice and three cafes imo. Their naan is incredible.

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favourite is Yadgar's..not been since before Covid.., this article reminds me its time to revisit

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Team Roadhouse could never agree upon which we preferred ! The naan breads in Marhaba are sublime. Regardless - we spent a lot of cloakroom money in those joints over the years. I think Marhaba may have catered for some bands too... buggered if I can recall whom though !

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Absolutely amazing article, I so enjoyed reading it. Had no idea Rice & Three was a Mancunian invention!

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Brilliant story. I became slightly familiar with south Asian cuisine when working in a meat factory during holidays from Uni in the late 60s. There were some guys from Pakistan and Kashmir eating a selection of spiced foods, mostly lamb, along with either rice or chapati. The latter was used instead of cutlery and the food was in stainless steel containers. Then about five years ago I was in India, both north and south, where there was usually a buffet in the hotel and I used to choose a lamb dish, a potato dish and some daal, no rice because it overfaced me. Not a rice and three but good flavours without feeling over spiced.

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